After you have removed your Trumatic fire front (to replace ignition battery for example) you may find that it keeps “falling off” – I have had this problem with the last few caravans I have had…
I tried various fixes – then I read about this idea. I was away in France at the time with limited workshop, tools and parts – however all I needed was in my vans “maintenance box”.
I took a couple of Steel Angle Brackets and sawed them into 4 short pieces of flat steel with 2 holes on each piece. I then drilled holes in the back of the fire front lip end used short bolts to fit the steel brackets. At home I would have used pop-rivets.
Then I refitted the front “correctly” and used woodscrews to fit the front “properly” in place. It doesn’t look like a “stylish” fix – but it has stopped the front continually falling off between sites – and risking breaking the cables to the controls!
My Dometic Fridge would NOT work on Gas! – I could hear the ignition sparking and I could hear the flame light (depending on ambient noise!), but the “Flame Gauge” would not operate. If this does NOT operate, the automatic Flame Protection will turn off the gas!
From searching the internet, this would appear to be a Common Problem and people have spent lots of money replacing parts to try to fix this fault… Replacing – Indicator Gauge, Flame Sensor, Gas Jet, Selector Switch etc…
It seems that a common cause of this problem is just a dirty micro-switch mounted on the Selector Switch. To get to this switch, you need to REMOVE the fridge. I don’t believe the micro-switch is available separately from Dometic. Instead you have to buy a complete replacement selector switch and replace the existing one. (Expensive!)
In my case, I found that if I switched between Gas and Battery a few times before lighting the gas this fixed it.
Alternatively, I found that once the gas was lit, if I “wobbled” the knob slightly in the Gas position, the needle would rise/fall depending on how good the contact was. It would appear that you don’t need to achieve the needle in the green – just ensure it operates a bit… This works for me!
If one day this work-around fails to get my Fridge running on Gas, I will remove the Fridge and fit a “bypass” switch to the original wiring of the micro-switch Switch. As I have not pulled by fridge out yet (at least not yet for this fault) I can’t tell you how to bypass the microswitch – but you will have to find this yourself.
Bypassing the micro-switch will NOT cause ANY safety issues as this switch is used to enable the Flame Detection Device. Its purpose would seem to be to prevent running the Flame Detection when you are NOT running on gas – so if you fit a By-pass switch – don’t forget to turn it off when you are NOT running on gas – or you will (eventually???) run your battery down…
These “rotary” knobs on the Dometic RM series of Fridges appear to be a bit of a weak spot (based on the adverts for replacement knobs on Ebay).
The “symptom” is that the knob keeps going round and round…
The easy fix is to buy a new one – they cost around £16-18 each – plus delivery. This will last until the next time it breaks.
OR you could try doing what i did. I replaced by “Thermostat knob” when I bought my caravan (it was 10 years old at the time).
Now, 2 years later, the “Selection” knob (Off, Mains, 12v, Fridge) started going “around and around” – So I was planning on buying a replacement. Then I got to thinking:
Next, I wrapped wire around it. I used MIG welding wire – but you could use copper… I wound several turns of wire around a Screwdriver Shaft to make a tight coil, slightly smaller than the knob shaft. This was so that it fitted snugly when I stretched it over the Knob Shaft.
Next, I coated the wire and the shaft end with Epoxy Resin. I used JB Weld Fast. I let it set fully and then I used a “mouse sander” to polish the end where I had some wire sticking out and to remove any high spots – you could just use a file… The aim was to ensure that the shaft would still fit through the hole on the front of the fridge…
That’s it – Job done – and not only are you £16 better off – but (hopefully) it will never break again!
At the start of my recent holiday – on the day we arrived in France (after all the checking I had done before we left!) we lost our water supply.
The water flowed fine for a second or so – and then just went to a trickle on both Hot and Cold supplies. After much checking of pumps, pump filter, pipes, connectors etc… I finally found the problem:
There is a Tee-Valve change-over on the inlet of the pump to select between “External water tank” and “Internal Water tank”- on the “pump” side of the Tee-connector there is a “Filter Mesh” INSIDE of the fitting – this was blocked! – To clear this, you just have to remove the Tee-Connector (push fittings) and run the fitting under a “campsite” tap to reverse flush the dirt from the filter. However, you would be advised to drain ALL of your water system down first, including the hot tank and on-board tank as otherwise you will have water “finding it’s own level”.
Once I flushed the valve and refitted it – No more problems!
OK, 12 months have passed since I started this article. COVID-19 came along early 2020 and spoilt most the the Seasons camping, so I didn’t get a proper chance to try out the Autofill system. I’ve have just returned from 4 weeks in France – and now at Boris’s command, I have 2 weeks at home to do “whatever I want” – provided I don’t leave home!
VERDICT: The Automatic Water filler system is “Fantastic” – Why didn’t Bailey do this originally? It would not have added much cost to the van, but is a great improvement. No more running out of water, no more flushing airlocks out after running out, no more priming between sites, no more messing about with the lousy Whale Water Inlet with the “dodgy” O rings sealing system!
Basically, having fitted the Crystal 2 water inlet to provide water directly to the on-board tank, the rest was pretty simple (and reasonably cheap). If you want a simple version, just fit a manual switch to the off board pump and off you go. (you also need to arrange a 12v feed to the pump). You can actually find the feed and earth you need on the connectors to the float valves in the tank. This is what I used for my Automatic Filler. As I was not certain that the float valves could handle the current for a pump (I assume Bailey use a relay ???), I used a relay to operate my pump to avoid overloading the existing float contacts. The way I wired the external system draws power from the original bailey supply to the floats. This has the benefit that you can control external & internal pumps from the original Bailey Pump Switch. Position 1 is normal “internal only” pump. Centre is all pumps off, Position 2 is Internal pump as usual and external pump as controlled by the floats and interface box. You could simplify by not having buzzers, not having high/low level options and not having a “local” switch for the external pump. I used a “standard” external “drop in the barrel” pump. It doesn’t need to be super fast as it only keeps the tank filled – the internal pump provides the normal water supply to the taps.
Where I fitted buzzers – these are simple 12v buzzers available for a couple of pounds each on ebay. I used a “warbler” buzzer (2 tone) for the low level alarm (via a switch – I will document this in a separate article). Mine was too loud – I tried reducing the voltage with a resistor – but the best option was “lots of Blu-Tak” over the sounder holes!
Here are photos I took at the time…
So, I used a Crystal 2 water inlet with filter, and off-board pump (and fittings to fit Crystal 2 connector).
A standard “Automotive” 12v Relay.
A cheap “electronic” buzzer.
A couple of switches – I used the same switches that Bailey used – either buy them from Prima Leisure (official Bailey spares supplier) or get them much cheaper on Ebay!