At the start of my recent holiday – on the day we arrived in France (after all the checking I had done before we left!) we lost our water supply.
The water flowed fine for a second or so – and then just went to a trickle on both Hot and Cold supplies. After much checking of pumps, pump filter, pipes, connectors etc… I finally found the problem:
There is a Tee-Valve change-over on the inlet of the pump to select between “External water tank” and “Internal Water tank”- on the “pump” side of the Tee-connector there is a “Filter Mesh” INSIDE of the fitting – this was blocked! – To clear this, you just have to remove the Tee-Connector (push fittings) and run the fitting under a “campsite” tap to reverse flush the dirt from the filter. However, you would be advised to drain ALL of your water system down first, including the hot tank and on-board tank as otherwise you will have water “finding it’s own level”.
Once I flushed the valve and refitted it – No more problems!
OK, 12 months have passed since I started this article. COVID-19 came along early 2020 and spoilt most the the Seasons camping, so I didn’t get a proper chance to try out the Autofill system. I’ve have just returned from 4 weeks in France – and now at Boris’s command, I have 2 weeks at home to do “whatever I want” – provided I don’t leave home!
VERDICT: The Automatic Water filler system is “Fantastic” – Why didn’t Bailey do this originally? It would not have added much cost to the van, but is a great improvement. No more running out of water, no more flushing airlocks out after running out, no more priming between sites, no more messing about with the lousy Whale Water Inlet with the “dodgy” O rings sealing system!
Basically, having fitted the Crystal 2 water inlet to provide water directly to the on-board tank, the rest was pretty simple (and reasonably cheap). If you want a simple version, just fit a manual switch to the off board pump and off you go. (you also need to arrange a 12v feed to the pump). You can actually find the feed and earth you need on the connectors to the float valves in the tank. This is what I used for my Automatic Filler. As I was not certain that the float valves could handle the current for a pump (I assume Bailey use a relay ???), I used a relay to operate my pump to avoid overloading the existing float contacts. The way I wired the external system draws power from the original bailey supply to the floats. This has the benefit that you can control external & internal pumps from the original Bailey Pump Switch. Position 1 is normal “internal only” pump. Centre is all pumps off, Position 2 is Internal pump as usual and external pump as controlled by the floats and interface box. You could simplify by not having buzzers, not having high/low level options and not having a “local” switch for the external pump. I used a “standard” external “drop in the barrel” pump. It doesn’t need to be super fast as it only keeps the tank filled – the internal pump provides the normal water supply to the taps.
Where I fitted buzzers – these are simple 12v buzzers available for a couple of pounds each on ebay. I used a “warbler” buzzer (2 tone) for the low level alarm (via a switch – I will document this in a separate article). Mine was too loud – I tried reducing the voltage with a resistor – but the best option was “lots of Blu-Tak” over the sounder holes!
Here are photos I took at the time…
So, I used a Crystal 2 water inlet with filter, and off-board pump (and fittings to fit Crystal 2 connector).
A standard “Automotive” 12v Relay.
A cheap “electronic” buzzer.
A couple of switches – I used the same switches that Bailey used – either buy them from Prima Leisure (official Bailey spares supplier) or get them much cheaper on Ebay!
I was having problems with my heater. NO, I don’t fix caravan heaters – but to help you here is how I fixed mine. If you are lacking heat, by searching the Web, I found that there are several problems that seem to afflict these heaters 1) Relays not working: My model has settings at 500W, 1KW and 2KW. If the relays are faulty, this can reduce the power of the heater. In my case, I tested the power input to the caravan to confirm that all my relays were working correctly, with the caravan taking the correct amount of current for each heat setting. You can check this yourself if you are “handy”. Buy a cheap “clamp-on” current meter from Ebay (that can measure AC current) and place it around the LIVE wire only on the supply to the Caravan. (I modified an extension lead so that I could hook around the LIVE wire only to make current measurements safely. The currents should be: 0.5A, 4A and 8A respectively.
As my currents were all correct, this suggested that my problems lay with the Thermostats on the heating element. To fix this, firstly you need to buy a “repair kit” from Ebay (or supplier of your choice). In addition to BOTH thermostats (you can’t test them, besides by the time you have managed to get to them you will WANT to replace both so you don’t have to do it all again!). Where was I? Oh yes, in addition to BOTH thermostats, you MUST replace the Gasket Seal on the Gas Flue.
PLEASE NOTE: As you need to disconnect the Gas Supply and the Gas Flue – you will need to find a handy Gas Engineer or “phone a friend”….
There is a good Video on YouTube here:
If you want to see the original link with comments – It is published on YouTube by “Attic Treasures”. That takes you through the job, but I would have been happier with more detail, so after you have watched the video, you can follow my article below on how I did it…